Oyster
cult
Fanny Bay celebrates 20 years of seaside shucking
Eric Akis
Times Colonist
 |
CREDIT:
Debra Brash, Times Colonist
Fanny Bay general manager Sharon Hadden, surrounded
by shells from the company's oceanfront plant, shows
some of her prized oysters, which are shipped around
the world. |
Wednesday,
April 13, 2005
During
a recent lunch of baked oysters at Kingfisher Oceanside
Resort near Courtenay, I was reminded where some of the
world's plumpest and most delicious oysters are grown. They
were so full and fresh-tasting I was convinced the chef
harvested them himself.
Not quite.
The
oysters did come from a nearby beach, but Fanny Bay Oysters
Ltd., located on Baynes Sound, 20 kilometres away, did the
harvesting. I wrote my very first food column on that company
eight years ago. It seemed a good time to check in on this
operation, which
recently celebrated its 20th anniversary.
Sharon Hadden,
Fanny Bay's general manager, says the shallow, nutrient-rich
area of Baynes Sound is perfect for growing oysters."Phytoplankton
(the abundant algae in the area) is the right size for them
to eat -- the more they eat, the fatter they get,"
says Hadden, reminding me why their oysters are so robust.
Hadden says they
also benefit by having a very clean expanse of ocean to
work with."The water quality standard is monitored
by the Ministry of Water, Land and Air Protection, and the
standard for growing shellfish is actually 14 times the
standard for public swimming," says Hadden.
Feeling good
about knowing I can safely swim and eat their oysters simultaneously,
I also learned that, like farmers, Fanny Bay Oysters plant
their seeds (microscopic animals that become oysters) every
spring. Some are planted in pouches, where they attach to
old shells and grow in clumps; some are planted directly
on the beach; and some are planted in water-submerged baskets
hanging from rafts that are later moved to the beach to
mature.
Fanny Bay Oysters
ships fresh, whole oysters around the world. After a quick
Internet search, I found them on menus from Toronto to Honolulu
to Singapore. When I told Hadden how fresh he oysters I
had eaten at the Kingfisher were, she dropped this bombshell,
or should I say, oyster shell, on me: "They were probably
our banquet oysters," says Hadden, referring to the
frozen "in the half shell" product they also ship
globally.
I was shocked:
how could my taste buds be so wrong? But Hadden quickly
made me realize oysters in this form can taste as fresh
or even fresher then ones you buy and shuck yourself.
"The capability
to freeze oysters was one of the main reasons we built the
new plant," says Hadden of their ultra-modern, 17,000-square-foot
facility that houses a freezer I would not want to fall
into.
 |
| Caroline
Strachan shucks oysters at the company's 17,000-square-foot
facility on the shores of Fanny Bay. |
Oysters,
harvested in the morning, whole or top shell removed, pass
through a 30-foot tunnel freezer set at a chilly -40 C,
where they freeze solid in four minutes or less.
"Freeze
something that quickly and it protects its cell structure
-- they don't break down and go to mush like they would
in a home freezer," says Hadden.
Fanny
Bay Oysters also sells shucked oysters in tubs, which are
delicious for pan-frying, deep-frying or using in stews,
soups and casseroles. They also sell smoked oysters, which
are dry-packed (no oil) in cans.
 |
CREDIT:
Debra Brash, Times Colonist
Caroline Strachan shucks oysters at the company's 17,000-square-foot
facility on the shores of Fanny Bay. Strachan shows
her shucking technique.
|
You
can buy their oysters at many seafood markets and grocery
stores and at their retail store, 1 - 6856 South Island
Hwy. (19A), Buckley Bay, situated beside the Denman Island
ferry terminal not far from their processing plant. You
can also buy their smoked oysters online at www.fannybayoysters.com.
Hadden says their fresh products should also be available
to order online in the not too distant future.
In honour
of their 20th anniversary, the company held a recipe contest.
The top picks became part of a self-published cookbook.
You can buy it online or at their retail store for $14.95.
Get a taste of what's in the book by checking the recipes.
Eric
Akis's columns appear in the Life section Wednesdays and
Sundays. The author of the best-selling Everyone Can Cook
and Everyone Can Cook Seafood (Whitecap Books) can be reached
at ericakis@shaw.ca
© Times
Colonist (Victoria) 2005
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